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It’s time to celebrate the wonderful things we can create with my Criss Cross Applesauce free granny square crochet pattern! Granny squares are some of my favorite projects. There are many things I adore about granny squares. It’s gratifying that each square can be made quickly. There are so many patterns from which to choose to mix and match or stick with just one for a project. But what I love the most about granny squares is the ability to personalize a square simply by using color.

When I decided to design my own granny square, I knew I wanted it to be a burst of colors. So my Criss Cross Applesauce free granny square crochet pattern uses a new color for each round (except rounds 1 & 2 can be worked with a single color). The color changes allow each round to really pop. By using front post stitches, it also allows for the colors to incorporate with each other. The original pattern is nine rounds for a 6” square, but I have also included expansion rounds to make a square in variable sizes up to 12” (17 rounds). The ability to play with color within these 17 rounds is limited only by each crocheter’s imagination. So please play with color and see where my Criss Cross Applesauce free granny square crochet pattern takes you!

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Materials & Gauge for Criss Cross Applesauce Granny Square

DK Weight Yarn in at least two colors – see calculator below for yardage requirements. Samples were made with King Cole Big Value DK.

Size G-6 (4.0 mm) Crochet Hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)

Scissors

Yarn Needle (optional for joining squares)

Yarn Calculator

Gauge

20 sts x 11.5 rows per 4×4″ (10x10cm) square in dc

Approximate Sizes

  • Thru 5 Rounds: 3.25″ (8.26cm)
  • Thru 7 Rounds: 4.5″ (11.43cm)
  • Thru 9 Rounds: 6″ (15.25cm)
  • Thru 11 Rounds: 7.5″ (19.05cm)
  • Thru 13 Rounds: 9″ (22.86cm)
  • Thru 15 Rounds: 10.5″ (26.67cm)
  • Thru 17 Rounds: 12″ (30.48cm)

Notes for Criss Cross Applesauce Granny Square

Special Stitches

  • dc2tog: [YO, insert hook in st indicated, YO, pull up a lp, YO pull through 2 lps] x2, YO, pull through remaining 3 lps.
  • FPtr: YO twice, insert hook from front to back to front around post of st, YO, pull up a lp, [YO, pull through 2 lps] x3
  • FPtrLC: sk next st, FPtr around next st, FPtr around skipped st IN FRONT OF previous FPtr
  • FPtrRC: sk next st, FPtr around next st, FPtr around skipped st BEHIND previous FPtr

Special Pattern Notes

  • Due to the effect of the FPtr crosses, which is the unique factor for this square, it looks best to change colors every round (except Rounds 1 and 2 can be the same color with causing an effect issue).
  • I wrote this pattern to use invisible starting dc and standing dc at the beginning of rounds. You can find my instruction videos on my YouTube channel, or simply begin with a standard ch3 to count as the 1st dc.
  • To join, I use the invisible join method; a video of which can be watched on my YouTube channel. Or you can join with a sl st if you prefer.
  • The pattern is essentially repeating two types of round (corner crosses on odd rounds and mid-span crosses on even rounds), so you can choose to stop crocheting when the square is your desired size. However, I do recommend you end with an odd round because the mid-span crosses slightly distort the edges until an odd round is added.

Free Crochet Pattern for Criss Cross Applesauce Granny Square

Round 1: 8sc in a magic circle, sl st in 1st st. (8 sc)

Round 2: Keep same color or switch. dc in the same st, [*dc2tog in the same st and the next st, dc in the same st as the 2nd leg of dc2tog, ch2*, dc in next st] x3, repeat * *, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (12 dc, 4 ch2 sp (16 total sts – I count ch2 sp as 1 st))

Round 3: Change Color (CC). Starting in 1st st after any ch2 sp, [dc in next 3 sts, sk ch2 sp, FPtr around next st, (dc, ch2 dc) in skipped ch2 sp, FPtr around last st before ch2 sp you just worked] x4, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (20 dc, 8 tr, 4 ch2 sp (32 total sts))

Round 4: CC. Starting in any ch2 sp, [(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2 sp, dc in next st, FPtrLC, dc in next st, FPtrRC, dc in next st] x4, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (28 dc, 16 tr, 4 ch2 sp (48 total sts))

Round 5: CC. Starting in 1st st after any ch2 sp, [dc in next 11 sts, sk ch2 sp, FPtr around next st, (dc, ch2, dc) in skipped ch2 sp, FPtr around last st before ch2 sp you just worked] x4, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (52 dc, 8tr, 4 ch2 sp (64 total sts))

Round 6: CC. Starting in any ch2 sp, [(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2 sp, dc in next 3 sts, FPtrLC, dc in next 5 sts, FPtrRC, dc in next 3 sts, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (60 dc, 16 tr, 4 ch2 sp (80 total sts))

Round 7: CC. Starting in 1st st after any ch2 sp, [dc in next 19 sts, sk ch2 sp, FPtr around next st, (dc, ch2, dc) in skipped ch2 sp, FPtr around last st before ch2 sp you just worked] x4, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (84 dc, 8tr, 4 ch2 sp (96 total sts))

Round 8: CC. Starting in any ch2 sp, [(2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2 sp, dc in next 5 sts, FPtrLC, dc in next 2 sts, FPtrLC, dc in next st, FPtrRC, dc in next 2 sts, FPtrRC, dc in next 5 sts, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (76 dc, 32 tr, 4 ch2 sp (112 total sts))

Round 9: CC. Starting in 1st st after any ch2 sp, [dc in next 27 sts, sk ch2 sp, FPtr around next st, (dc, ch2, dc) in skipped ch2 sp, FPtr around last st before ch2 sp you just worked] x4, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (116 dc, 8 tr, 4 ch2 sp (128 total sts))

Round 10: CC. Starting in any ch2 sp, [(dc, ch2, dc) in ch2 sp, dc in next 7 sts, FPtrLC, dc in next 2 sts, FPtrLC, dc in next 5 sts, FPtrRC, dc in next 2 sts, FPtrRC, dc in next 7 sts] x4, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (100 dc, 32 tr, 4 ch2 sp (136 total sts))

Round 11: CC. Starting in 1st st before any ch2 sp, [dc in next 33 sts, sk ch2 sp, FPtr around next st, (dc, ch2, dc) in skipped ch2 sp, FPtr around last st before ch2 sp you just worked] x4, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (140 dc, 8 tr, 4 ch2 sp (152 total sts))

Round 12: CC. Starting in any ch2 sp, [(dc, ch2, dc) in ch2 sp, dc in next 8 sts, {FPtrLC, dc in next 2 sts} x2, FPtrLC, dc in next st, {FPtrRC, dc in next 2 sts} x2, FPtrRC, dc in next 8 sts, join with 1st dc and cut tail (108 dc, 48 tr, 4 ch2 sp (160 total sts))

Round 13: CC. Starting in 1st st after any ch2 sp, [dc in next 39 sts, sk ch2 sp, FPtr around next st, (dc, ch2, dc) in skipped ch2 sp, FPtr around last st before ch2 sp you just worked] x4, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (164 dc, 8 tr, 4 ch2 sp (176 total sts))

Round 14: CC. Starting in any ch2 sp, [(dc, ch2, dc) in ch2 sp, dc in next 9 sts, {FPtrLC, dc in next 2 sts} x2, FPtrLC, dc in next 5 sts, {FPtrRC, dc in next 2 sts} x2, FPtrRC, dc in next 9 sts] x4, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (132 dc, 48 tr, 4 ch2 sp (184 total sts))

Round 15: CC. Starting in the 1st st after any ch2 sp, [dc in next 45 sts, sk ch2 sp, FPtr around next st, (dc, ch2, dc) in skipped ch2 sp, FPtr around last st before ch2 sp you just worked] x4, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (188 dc, 8 tr, 4 ch2 sp (200 total sts))

Round 16: CC. Starting in the any ch2 sp, [(dc, ch2, dc) in ch2 sp, dc in next 10 sts, {FPtrLC, dc in next 2 sts} x3, FPtrLC, dc in next st, {FPtrRC, dc in next 2 sts} x3, FPtrRC, dc in next 10 sts] x4, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (140 dc, 64 tr, 4 ch2 sp (208 total sts))

Round 17. CC. Starting in the 1st st after any ch2 sp, [dc in next 51 sts, sk ch2 sp, FPtr around next st, (dc, ch2, dc) in skipped ch2 sp, FPtr around last st before ch2 sp you just worked] x4, join with 1st dc and cut tail. (212 dc, 8 tr, 4 ch2 sp (224 total sts))

I love to see what people create from my patterns! If you make this project, please share your photos on the pattern page in Ravelry tag @SeeMelissaCraft on Facebook, post in the comments below, or email to [email protected] I can’t wait to see your adaptation!

Patterns and images are the intellectual property of Uniquely Melissa. Please feel free to share this pattern and sell products made with this pattern provided you credit Uniquely Melissa as the designer and include a link to the pattern at SeeMelissaCraft.com. If you need pattern assistance, please comment below or email [email protected]